Panna Tiger Reserve in Madhya Pradesh is unquestionably on the list of must-visit destinations for wildlife enthusiasts. While renowned for its rich biodiversity, the region also unfolds a captivating tapestry of culture and architecture that begs exploration.
I embarked on a five-day trip at the end of December 2022, opting for a train journey between Mumbai and Jhansi, followed by hiring a private cab for day excursions. Although my primary objective was to spot tigers and immerse myself in the wilderness of Panna’s forests, my explorer spirit led me to indulge in fascinating daytime excursions to nearby places, ensuring a holistic experience of the region’s culture and history.
Panna Tiger Reserve, situated in the Central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, is easily accessible from various transportation points. The nearest airports are Khajuraho or Gwalior, while the closest railway stations include Khajuraho, Satna in MP, and Jhansi in Uttar Pradesh.
Opting for Jhansi from Mumbai was the most convenient choice for me, given the regular passage of the CST Rajdhani Express through the city—offering a combination of speed, affordability, and a lower carbon footprint. The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Khajuraho temples and the Bundelkhand dynasty heritage town of Orchha were also added to my itinerary, given their accessibility via Jhansi.
If you want to follow my trail and visit Panna and nearby attractions, then here are the 10 activities to do to make your trip memorable.
1. Discover The Thrills of A Safari in Wilderness
Of Course, that’s the priority! The Panna Tiger Reserve is a crucial sanctuary for tigers located in the Vindhya Hill region of northern Madhya Pradesh. The landscape, a canvas painted by a dynamic dry deciduous forest, showcases sprawling plateaus and gorges, creating a breathtaking tapestry. The stunning Ken River flows through this land, adding to its unparalleled beauty.
If you are planning a trip to Panna Tiger Reserve, then utmost important is to book your safari rides much in advance (at least 30-35 days advance) or else you won’t get the desired time-slot or the gate of entry. Panna Tiger Reserve has two main entry gates to the core area – Madla and Hindola. Then there are two buffer zones – Akola, and Jinna.
The Panna Tiger Reserve, with its diverse wildlife and natural allure, plays a pivotal role as a conservation area, preserving India’s rich biodiversity. The remarkable turnaround from battling near-extinction of tigers due to rampant poaching until 2009 to becoming a flourishing ground for Panthera Tigris is a compelling narrative of conservation success. Today, the forest teems with innumerable carnivorous, herbivorous, and avian species, forming a harmonious ecosystem.
Approximately 20 percent of the core area is open to tourists, inviting exploration through safari trails where vehicles are free to wander within the region. For those seeking a different perspective, the summer season offers the opportunity for a boat safari, while night safaris beckon those eager to explore the forest’s eerie charm in the buffer zones. It is a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts and wildlife lovers, who can experience the stunning scenery, observe exotic wildlife, and appreciate the cultural heritage of the region.
2. Visit Jhansi Fort & Rani Lakshmibai Museum
On the day of my arrival in Jhansi, I had little time to explore the city in the morning hours, when I couldn’t help but be awestruck by the majestic Jhansi fort, which stands tall and proud as a symbol of the valiant spirit of the Bundelkhand dynasty. Built on a large hilltop called Bangira, Jhansi ka Qila, gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. Feel the magnamity of its last ruler and the most famous freedom fighter of India – the Queen of Jhansi – Rani Laxmibai.
After taking a moment to absorb the grandeur of the Jhansi fort, I went to the Rani Laxmibai Museum, which is at a half a kilometre distance. It houses some stunning collection of artifacts and exhibits of the royal era and has sculptors found in Khajuraho and nearby places. I was tad disappointed here as it doesn’t have much of Rani Lakshmibai’s possessions but few weapons. I was informed most of the royalty’s stuff is housed in Gwalior museum now. Nonetheless, it is an interesting and well-maintained museum.
3. Visit Orchcha – the Crown of Bundelkhand
The slight disappointment of the museum visit, disappeared when I reached Orchcha, which is about 17 kms from Jhansi. I found that the real treasures of Bundelkhand lay in the princely state monuments that dotted the landscape of Orccha. The Chaturbhuj Temple’s fascinating labyrinth of stairs or ‘Bhool Bhulaiya,’ was particularly intriguing. As I navigated through the maze of corridors and staircases, I felt as if I was walking through a portal into another time and place, transported to an era of kings and queens, of warriors and saints.
The real jewel in the crown of Bundelkhand in Orchcha was the magnificent Raja Mahal. With its ornate architecture, intricate carvings, and rich history, this palace was a testament to the glory of the Bundela dynasty.
As I explored the nooks and crannies of the Raja Mahal, I couldn’t help but marvel at the craftsmanship and artistry that had gone into its construction. Every inch of the palace was a testament to the ingenuity and skill of the bygone era artisans.
However, amid the awe-inspiring beauty, a disheartening reality cast its shadow – the regrettable habit of modern tourists defacing the ancient artwork. The walls of these majestic monuments, which should have been preserved and revered, bore scars of negligence and disregard. It served as a stark reminder of the importance of responsible tourism to safeguard our cultural heritage for future generation
4. Check Out The “Original” Mastani Mahal
As I embarked on my journey from Orchcha to Khajuraho, about 170 kms, my curiosity was piqued by the mention of a lesser-known Mastani Mahal in Chattarpur, which is on the way to Khajuraho. While the Mastani Mahal of Pune is quite famous, this palace in Chattarpur was a hidden gem waiting to be explored. Built by the Bundelkhand Maharaja Chhatrasal for his daughter, Princess Mastani, the ruins of the palace now stand as a testament to the region’s rich history.
The Mastani museum has some rare artifacts on display, showcasing the wealth and grandeur of the erstwhile kingdom. From intricate jewelry to ornate weapons, each artifact seemed to have a story to tell.
I was fascinated to learn that this museum, lying in a rural corner of Panna district, was inaugurated by none other than the first Prime Minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru.
Compared to the Rani Lakshmibai museum in Jhansi, the Mastani museum provided a deeper insight into the region’s cultural and historical heritage. The museum allows visitors to immerse themselves in the rich history and cultural legacy of the Bundelkhand region. For anyone traveling from Jhansi to Khajuraho, a visit to the Mastani Mahal is an interesting stop for sure.
5. Explore The Magnificence of The Khajuraho Temple Complex
After a long day exploring the Bundelkhand dynasty monuments, I arrived at the most famous temple complex in India – the Khajuraho. The chilly December evening was spent in the open courtyard of the temple complex watching the light and sound show, a fascinating experience, giving a glimpse into the history of Khajuraho. Although the narration by Indian film veteran Amitabh Bachchan was hypnotic, I felt that the visual aspect of the show was lacking and overshadowed by the narration.
The next morning, I woke up early to the crisp chill of winter, and set out for a brisk 10 km run around the charming town of Khajuraho. Running past the ancient temples, around an old pond, through the village side, by the farmlands and observing the daily lives of the locals as they start their day, was a delightful experience. As the sun rose higher in the sky, I made my way to the Khajuraho Group of Monuments on the western side, where I was immediately enchanted by the beauty of the magnificent architecture and intricate carvings.
Made entirely of sandstone, each temple stands as a testament to the remarkable craftsmanship of ancient artisans. Witnessing such artistry achieved solely through the use of chisels and stone, one can’t help but ponder the incredible capabilities and strengths of human beings, who nowadays seem to be becoming increasingly reliant on machines.
While, the Khajuraho western group of temples is wrongfully mentioned many a times for its erotic sculptors, if one observes with more interest and hires a guide to know the history, one will see much more beyond the erotism and soak in the true spiritualism of the space. So my tip for Khajuraho exploration is definitely hire a licenced guide here to understand the story of the grand temple complex and its mind blowing sculptors, including the erotic ones.
6. Count The Crocodiles At Raneh Falls & Ken Ghariyal Sanctuary
To add more excitement to my journey, I had charted a course to explore the magnificent Raneh Falls and the Ken Ghariyal sanctuary before making my way to Panna. The Ken River, which flows through the rugged terrain of Panna National Park, houses the stunning Raneh Falls, surrounded by picturesque granite rocks. The waterfall cascades down in multiple tiers during monsoon, creating a mesmerizing view that is a favorite among nature enthusiasts and photographers.
Located adjacent to the Raneh Falls, the Ken Ghariyal Sanctuary is home to the rare and endangered Ghariyal crocodiles. Spanning across an expansive area of 45 square kilometers, this sanctuary is situated on the banks of the Ken River.
Although we didn’t spot any Ghariyals, we were treated to the breathtaking views of the Ken River, a gigantic crocodile and a group of noisy travelers. However, we were lucky on our way back through the periphery of the forest area, we spotted a jackal and a sambhar deer.
7. Take A Refreshing Dip at Pandav Falls
I was not able to go there, as it was a new year’s eve time and the place was very crowded. However, if you go on any other regular days, and you don’t mind local crowds, then this falls located inside the Panna forest reserve, is a refreshing stop.
The waterfalls, the deep lake and the lush green environs making it a perfect setting for your rendezvous with serenity. It is also an interesting spot for mythology enthusiasts, as the ruins at the falls are said to have been where the famous five brothers – the Pandavs of the epic Mahabharat spent their time in exile. You may need to take a guide with you since it is part of the national park and certainly will be a better experience.
8. Go For An Immersive Walk with the Pardhis
The Pardhis are a nomadic community in Panna who were once known for hunting in the forest areas. The Panna Tiger Reserve forest department and some private tour operators organise a unique experiential walk with the Pardhis. Once hunters of the wildlife, these Pardhi people play an active role in the conservation efforts.
Over the period of time with the combined efforts of the Madhya Pradesh Forest Department and NGOs, a large part of the Pardhi population has given up traditional hunting and is now engaged in education, local employment opportunities, and other positive activities. A walk with these people of the forest will unravel spectacular stories and unsung tales of the animal kingdom. I wanted to do this walk, but did not have enough time, but you can check this indigenous tribe culture if you are keen in anthropology.
9. Shop Some Bamboo Sarees & Local Crafts
If you like shopping local handmade stuff like me, then in Khajuraho please check sarees and stoles made of Bamboo. They are quite cheap and eco-friendly. Be aware of counterfeits, so I suggest shop Radha Sarees next to the Shiv Temple at the Western Group of monuments.
Also, you will find interesting handmade wooden stuff and some antiques in the shops opposite to the temple complex. I bought an interesting carving made of Arjun tree wood from a street vendor, which now graces my window garden.
10. Savour Spicy Chaats
For food enthusiasts, indulging in Chaats (savoury snacks) in Jhansi is a must. The city in Uttar Pradesh is renowned for its delightful sweet-spicy delicacies. During my visit, I explored Narayan Chaat Bhandar and relished some pani puri, dahi Bhallas, and stumbled upon the intriguing “Karela Papdi Chaat.” The unique aspect of this Karela Chaat is its non-bitter flavor, as it doesn’t contain bitter gourd or Karela. Instead, it offers a delightful mix of sweet and tangy tastes.