The Elusive King of Sasan Gir & His Enchanting Kingdom

Sasan Gir, nestled in northern Gujarat, is a land of dense deciduous forests and a true embodiment of nature’s blessings. The verdant forest is home to the only place in the world where the majestic Asiatic Lions can be found roaming free. Being originally from Gujarat, visiting Sasan Gir was always on my ‘to-do’ list, but I could only fulfill the dream once the pandemic struck in 2020.

After being cooped up in the house in Ahmedabad with my family for over 9 months, the travel bug in me was desperate to spread its wings. So, when the restrictions were finally eased, and the National parks in India opened with limited entry, I seized the opportunity to plan a 4-day trip to the enchanting forests of Gir in December 2020. A perfect destination when one has to maintain distance from fellow humans cause of COVID-19 times, but not nature. Also, this trip became special as it marked my entry into the world of wildlife photography, as I got hooked on learning more about capturing the wonders of the wild, wild world in all its glory.

Initially, I had no particular interest in focusing on the big cats. Instead, I was looking forward to being enchanted by the beauty of the deep, dense foliage of the forests. However, the glossy advertisements featuring superstar Amitabh Bachchan and other celebrities boasting about their encounters with the king of the jungle piqued my curiosity. I expected to see a pride of lions just lying on the road during my first Safari, welcoming me. But the reality was far from what I had imagined.

Safari Permits, Routes and Local Guides

Sasan Gir spread over a vast expanse of land, offers visitors three safaris every day, two in the morning from 6 to 9 am and 8 to 11 am, and one in the afternoon from 3 to 6 pm. The safari park has a well-thought-out system of thirteen routes, and each Safari takes you through one of them. However, fret not, as most of these routes are interconnected, offering you a chance to explore more of the forest than a straight or circular path.

Since my first visit to Gir National Park was amidst the pandemic period, I was able to get permits for the safaris easily. However, it is essential to book the safaris way in advance as with normalcy restored; the Park remains one of the busiest tourist destinations. I recommend booking safari permits at least one month ahead of your planned visit through the Sasan Gir Forest Department website.

To enjoy the Safari, one must hire a gypsy that can seat up to six people and comes with a dedicated driver and guide. The guides and drivers of Sasan Gir are locals who are hired through a third-party agency arrangement. They possess extensive knowledge about the topography of the forest and the wildlife and are experts in locating birds and animals. Their love and respect for the jungle are evident, and they ensure that you do not leave disappointed.

What sets the safari experience apart is the Park’s strict no-plastic policy. Visitors cannot bring plastic water bottles inside, and the Park provides steel water bottles at a nominal price of Rs 10. This initiative is an excellent step towards promoting sustainable tourism and preserving the environment.

Maintaining Decorum

When embarking on a wildlife safari, it’s crucial to remember to maintain total decorum. This means switching your phones to silent mode, avoiding loud sounds or shrieking on seeing animals, and never getting down from the safari vehicle or pressuring your guide or drivers to change routes.

To experience the magic, it is wise to maintain silence and respect the surroundings. It will allow you to connect deeply with the beauty of nature and, most importantly, increase your chances of meeting the king of the jungle. 

As you enter the forest, you’ll feel the aura of royalty around you as if you are entering some majestic kingdom with walls made of trees and herds of deer frolicking around like subjects of a king. A symphony of earthy aromas fills the air, carrying the distinct scent of damp soil, moss-covered trees, and the sweet fragrance of wildflowers in bloom. The gentle rustling of leaves blending harmoniously with the melodic chirping of birds and the occasional distant call of unseen animals creates a captivating orchestration of nature’s soothing sounds.

My first Big Cat sighting in the wild 

Traveling with my younger cousin, who shares my passion for nature and wildlife, we were both most eager to spot the lion. Our first Safari was in the chilly morning air. We set off in an open gypsy that navigated the uneven forest roads, surrounded by lush greenery that formed a stunning canopy above. As we traversed the forest path, we spotted an array of animals such as deer, sambar, monitor lizards, mongoose, owls, and eagles, but no sign of the king.

However, our luck turned around when we stopped upon hearing a deer howl, and we caught sight of a leopard hurrying across the road and disappearing into the bushes. This became the most thrilling highlight of our first Safari and my first sighting of a big cat in the wild.

Since we had yet to see the king, our evening safari focused on finding him. Though we passed by some stunning locations, such as the Siddi village inhabited by people of African origin, we didn’t make any stops. We went straight to where it was assumed the king might be, as sightings had been reported there earlier in the day. We drove past the breathtaking Kamaleshwar dam site, where numerous birds flocked and crocodiles lazed around, and a watchtower for tourists provided an elevated view of the surrounding forest.

Along with other wildlife enthusiasts, we waited patiently for almost 40 to 45 minutes, hoping that the king would emerge from his slumber. However, as the clock approached 6 pm, it became apparent that we would have to leave the forest without the grand beast’s sighting.

Although I was in love with the forest and the beauty it offered, the elusiveness of the king was starting to weigh on me. My expectations from the advertisements, stories told by acquaintances, and the reality of not spotting the lion was disappointing. However, my cousin was determined to see the lion at any cost. With only one Safari left, I couldn’t help but wonder what would happen if we didn’t find the king.

False Promises & Real Stories 

Traveling to the wilderness can be an exhilarating experience, but it’s important to stay cautious and avoid falling into traps set by touts who promise sightings of wild animals for an “extra fee.” While in Sasan Gir, we, too, encountered such touts, but we chose to stay alert and not fall for their deceitful promises. After all, wild animals are not like domesticated ones that can be herded for a show. They are majestic creatures that should be viewed in their natural habitat without any human interference.

Luckily for us, we were able to secure a special accessible route permit from the Forest Department, thanks to my status as a media professional. With one of the most experienced guides of Sasan Gir, we ventured deep into the forest, eager to witness the grandeur of the king and queen of the jungle. As luck would have it, we were able to spot the queen as she feasted on a buffalo just a few meters away from us.

It was a spectacular feeling to witness the grand beast in her natural habitat, unfazed by the presence of our gypsy full of excited tourists. However, the king remained elusive, and we relied on the expertise of the trackers who worked tirelessly day and night to monitor the lions’ movements.

While waiting for a sighting, we had the pleasure of conversing with our forest department guide, who was a treasure trove of knowledge about the forest, its inhabitants, and the lions. With over 25 years of experience as a driver and guide, he shared with us amazing facts and intriguing jungle tales that we had never heard before.

We learned that lions have a remarkable habit of sanitizing their paws long before humans realize the benefits of clean hands. They seek out Guggal trees in the deciduous forests, rubbing their nails vigorously on the tree bark. The juice of the Guggal tree contains bacteria-killing properties, which the lions extract to cleanse their nails. It was a fascinating display of intelligence and adaptation in the animal kingdom. Additionally, our guide told us about the pre-hunting ritual of wild cats like lions. Rolling in the dust or grass in the forest, they perfumed their bodies with these scents, ensuring that their prey would not detect their presence. Such behaviors highlighted the strategic nature of these magnificent predators.

We were fortunate enough to witness a lioness and her two cubs during our last Safari in Sasan Gir. The playful duo entertained us for several minutes, curiously sniffing at us before their mother appeared and ordered them back into the bushes. A captivating aspect we discovered was the exceptional discipline among lion cubs. Our guide shared that the cubs spend two to three years with their mothers, and they never deviate from their mothers’ orders. It was awe-inspiring to witness the level of obedience and respect within the lion family units, emphasizing the bonds and social dynamics that exist among them.

As we continued along the winding jungle trail, our excitement grew when we spotted a congregation of vultures near a shimmering water body. These magnificent birds, with their impressive wingspans and graceful flight, were perched on nearby trees and rocks, seemingly engrossed in deep contemplation. Observing the vultures in their natural habitat was a rare and captivating experience. These often misunderstood birds play a vital role in the ecosystem as nature’s cleanup crew, scavenging on carcasses and preventing the spread of disease. Our encounter with these majestic vultures served as a poignant reminder of the interconnectedness of all living beings, leaving an indelible impression on our hearts and deepening our appreciation for the wonders of the wild.

Finally, a glimpse of the Elusive majesty

While we had seen many animals and birds during our trip, we couldn’t help but wonder if we would get to see the king of the jungle, the lion. As it turned out, we were lucky in our last Safari of the tour to spot a male lion, thanks to our able guide and brave gypsy driver who navigated us through a dense foliage to get closer to the elusive king.

We were incredibly fortunate to get within a mere 20 feet of the magnificent male lion, creating an electrifying proximity to the elusive king. The air carried a faint musky scent unique to these majestic predators. Through the dense foliage, we caught glimpses of his golden fur glistening under the dappled sunlight as he meticulously groomed himself with languid strokes of his mighty paws. His piercing eyes, like amber jewels, briefly met ours, revealing a primal wisdom and a regal calm that seemed to echo through the surrounding wilderness. This up-close encounter immersed us in an awe-inspiring atmosphere, where time seemed to stand still, and the palpable energy of the wild flowed between us, leaving an indelible mark on our souls.

A visit to the forest or a wildlife safari is not just about spotting a particular animal or capturing the perfect shot. It’s about immersing yourself in nature’s lap, experiencing the clean air, dusty trails, and the presence of various forest dwellers.

Each Safari is unique, and we should embrace the blessings that come our way, even if they may not be in the form we initially imagined. The experience taught us a valuable lesson.

Prayers are answered in whispers, and blessings often come in disguise. We must absorb these experiences and let them nourish our souls so that we become better stewards of the environment and more connected to the world around us.

Second visit to Gir in Summer of 2023 to search for the elusive king

In May 2023, I had the opportunity to visit Gir National Park once again with a group other four individuals, all eagerly hoping to catch a glimpse of the elusive Lion King. While our hopes were not entirely fulfilled as the king remained hidden in the open forests, we were lucky enough to spot Devraj, the fully grown king of the protected enclosure of Devalia Park. The protected enclosure of Devalia Park features a fenced area that closely resembles the natural habitat of the lions. However, what truly made this trip special were the incredible sightings of pride of lionesses, cubs, and young lions in their natural habitat.

One of the most unforgettable experiences was encountering three lionesses and six cubs, three of which were only 2-3 months old. It was truly heart-warming to witness tender moments of mother’s love as she fed her adorable cubs, their tiny bodies nestled closely to her side and then gently nudging them away to keep them in line.

The three cubs were bold and confident, displaying their youthful energy and curiosity. Their innocence and vulnerability were evident, yet their future as powerful apex predators was already beginning to take shape. The cubs’ playful antics and the protective presence of their mothers created an enchanting tableau of lion life in its purest form.

Another stunning sight was encountering a pride of five lions at the famous Kamleshwar Dam. As we approached the reservoir, we could see them lounging by the river, drinking water from the reservoir and lazily basking under the clear blue sky. This sighting was especially exciting for my two cousins, who were visiting a wildlife park for the first time.

As we traversed through the jungle, the sounds of distant roars and growls echoed through the air, a reminder of the untamed nature of these magnificent creatures. We were treated to the sight of numerous dancing peacocks, adding to the already magical atmosphere. Our guides and drivers also regaled us with fascinating stories about the Park and its inhabitants and their unique experiences with the lions, leaving us with a deeper appreciation and understanding of the diverse wildlife in Gir.

Gir National Park holds a special place in my heart not only for its awe-inspiring landscapes and diverse wildlife but also for its remarkable conservation efforts.

Gir National Park stands as a testament to successful conservation initiatives, specifically the protection of the endangered Asiatic Lions. The collective efforts of dedicated conservationists, forest department officials, and local communities have not only saved the lions from the brink of extinction but have also created a sanctuary where visitors can witness the beauty and power of these regal beings.

And yet, my ultimate wish to witness the Lion King walking the path in his full regality remains unfulfilled. So, I patiently wait, knowing that the day will come when the sun will cast its golden rays upon the regal mane, illuminating the path before me and granting me the privilege of witnessing the Elusive majesty’s beautiful stride. I will continue to return to Gir National Park, my heart forever intertwined with its wild wonders.