The zigzag mountain route resembled a muddy obstacle course, now murkier, battered by the relentless rain of the previous night. I was seated in a shared Sumo Taxi with five other souls as our emotions oscillated between anxiety and shared camaraderie in sync with the bumpy ups and downs.
The seasoned driver appeared slightly overwhelmed by the challenging terrain. Skilfully manoeuvring the vehicle, he would cautiously shift gears and delicately balance the accelerator and brakes to make navigating through the slippery mounds bearable. The deep gorge on the left side of the mountain route served as a constant reminder of the dangerous stakes. Watching cars stuck in the murk ahead and hearing chilling tales from the driver about the perils of driving on the route added an extra layer of fear.
We had covered over 200 km on this route from Nagaland’s Noklak towards Assam’s state border in over 11 hours, and this last 50-60 km stretch was certainly keeping us on the edges of our seat. As I murmured some prayers to the Almighty for our safety, a sudden realization hit me: I had chosen the road less traveled as per my usual style. I cursed myself but then remembered the reason for the travel and the positive results the journey yielded.
Dr. Pritpal Kaur: A Trailblazing IPS Officer Transforming Lives
In 2022, I got roped into a film project set in the far-flung Noklak district of Nagaland, courtesy of the illustrious film producer Siddharth Kak. The prospect of an adventure in India’s North East region was thrilling, but the budget was a buzzkill. I was hesitant to take the baton until a phone conversation with Dr. Pritpal Kaur, Noklak’s trailblazing SP, changed everything.
Dr. Pritpal Kaur is a truly inspiring woman of substance. Originally from Haryana, her journey from being a top dentist to becoming an IPS officer represents not just a career shift but a profound commitment to societal betterment. When appointed as the First Superintendent of Police in the youngest district of Nagaland, she went beyond the conventional roles of law enforcement.
Dr. Kaur emerged as a beacon of hope for the people of Noklak, instigating positive changes that extended from establishing the local police station to tackling social issues like drug abuse and HIV. Her contributions also encompassed efforts in the realms of education and women’s welfare. Her ability to easily converse in the local Nagamese dialect has endeared her to the community.
Undoubtedly, the people of Noklak hold immense love and respect for Dr. Pritpal Kaur. Recognizing her generosity and unwavering dedication, the locals have honoured her with a loving local tribe name – Theshao Lam.
TONS: A Farmers Cooperative and Sustainable Living
Among the myriad initiatives spearheaded by Dr. Kaur, ‘Taste of Noklak Society’ (TONS) is a unique farmers cooperative project leading to grassroots empowerment. Comprising men and women of Noklak, this farmer’s cooperative ventures beyond traditional agriculture, producing an array of organic products—from shampoos and soaps to candies and more. TONS is more than a society; it’s a testament to the locals’ dedication to sustainable living.
My film project zoomed in on TONS, with a particular focus on their pioneering use of an innovative pulp and processing machine. Originating from Haryana, this machine found its way to Noklak, transforming local production processes. The mastermind behind this technological leap, Haryana innovator Dharamveer Kamboj, was also summoned under Dr. Kaur’s watchful eye to help the Noklak farmers. The film project aimed to unravel the impact of this innovation, documenting its journey from conception to the hands of those it aimed to uplift.
The conversations over the phone with Dr. Kaur and the charismatic women of TONS had painted a vivid picture of Noklak’s spirit, resilience, and untold stories. The anticipation of witnessing these narratives firsthand grew stronger, overshadowing the initial allure of heading a film project and resistance over budget constraints.
And so, armed with nothing but a shoestring budget, I decided to embark on this extraordinary journey. I recruited a lone cameraperson from Assam and snagged flight tickets to Guwahati. Now, I had to figure out the best and cheapest way to reach Noklak!
On a Shoestring Budget: Crafting a Crazy Travel Itinerary
Situated at the north eastern extremity of India, reaching Noklak posed a logistical challenge. The prospect of helicopter service from Dimapur to Tuensang seemed promising, but baggage restrictions and our heavy-duty camera equipment forced a rethink. The alternatives were either a 375-400 km cab ride from Dimapur to Noklak or exploring another route through North Nagaland. 
Resourceful inquiries on social media travel forums, conversations with North East locals and Noklak contacts led to the revelation of a local and budget-friendly route.
The plan involved taking a shared taxi from Mariani at the Assam border to Mokukchung, the ‘intellectual and cultural capital’ of Nagaland, an 85 km drive.
From Mokukchung, additional shared taxi services would carry us to Tuensang, a further 100 km, with the final assurance that our kind hosts would assist from there to reach Noklak, another 55 km distance.
Divine Intervention & Enchanting Nagaland
Brimming with confidence on discovering a new route through Nagaland’s remote areas, I meticulously planned the journey. Bookings for the train to Mariani, shared taxi seats, notifications to Noklak hosts, and the acquisition of inner line permits—all were in place. Despite the scepticism of my camera person about the unknown road, the spirit of adventure prevailed.
Finally, to seek some divine blessing before taking on the unexplored route, I went to the famous Kamakhya temple of Guwahati. Well, honestly, I did realise, as we took the taxi from Mariani to Mokuchung, how much those prayers to the divine came in handy.
The road conditions were far from ideal; they were, in fact, pathetic, mostly reduced to muddy tracks with sporadic patches of tar roads. Yet, the lush green mountains, clear streams, and the enchanting beauty of Nagaland overshadowed the challenges.
The journey became an immersion in the natural wealth of the region, where the beautiful landscapes mirrored the resilience of the people who called it home.
Work & Play in Noklak: Film Shoot Adventures
After a bumpy 14-hour ride, overcoming mountain sickness and a few landslides, we arrived in Noklak in the dark hours of the night. The discreet location we were hosted, said to be the farmhouse of TONS chairperson Mongshai Hangthing, appeared hauntingly ghostly at night. But I was too exhausted to care more and succumbed to immediate slumber.
At the crack of the dawn, the revelation awaited – an ethereal space unfolded. The farmhouse belonged to the realms of fantasy—a two-storeyed wooden haven poised gracefully before a crystal-clear stream teeming with fish, surrounded by flourishing kiwi vines, and cradled by the verdant embrace of the Naga mountain range.
Inhaling the crisp mountain air, I started with the film project, with the topmost agenda being a meeting with the extraordinary Dr Pritpal Kaur. In person, she transcended mere descriptions – more amazing, humble yet tough, simple yet unshakeably solid.
The initial encounter with this police lady sparked a lifelong admiration for her, a testament to her unparalleled character.
Dr. Kaur became my guide, unveiling Noklak, its rich culture, its people, and the challenges that would shape our film’s narrative.
Over the next two days, we worked on the film project, amazed by the spirit of Noklak’s resilient inhabitants. Their love and hospitality engulfed me in an overwhelming embrace.
Unexpected Extensions & Indo-Myanmar Border Picnic
After completing the film shoot in Noklak within the planned two days, it was time to depart on the third day – remember, shoestring budget! However, Noklak had other plans for me. Being a Sunday with no available transport to return, I had to extend my stay for another day. In a heartwarming gesture, the members of TONS, our hosts, decided to take me on a special outing to witness the Indo-Myanmar border.
The Indo-Myanmar border area is fascinating, where the entire region in both countries is home to the dominant Khiamniungan tribe. This shared heritage translates into a common culture, food, and camaraderie among the people. Due to this social reality, the villagers resist strong demarcations or borders, and the existing Free Border Regime allows them to frequently visit each other’s spaces. During our visit, we reached the high point of the border, capturing numerous pictures and even riding bikes made in Myanmar.
The trip evolved into a delightful picnic, with the Noklak women adding to the joy by dressing up in their local traditional attire and singing the anthem of their society at a picturesque location nearby. I also had the opportunity to wear the traditional Naga women’s attire and participate in a mini-modeling session.
We filmed the official song of TONS (penned by Dr. Kaur), eventually handing it over to them for promotional purposes.
Dr. Pritpal Kaur, the spirited policewoman, joined us there, leading the group down to the river. We had a blast walking across the rough stream and playing in the cold & sharp river waves. It was the police order that day!
In addition to the cold stream bath adventure, I relished the fresh kiwis from Monghai’s farm, shopped for hyperlocal handmade crafts, and learned about an amazing initiative on women’s hygiene (again initiated by Dr. Kaur)—the local production of sanitary pads.
Having spent three fulfilling days in Noklak, where I was initially sceptical to travel, it felt like home. Saying goodbyes to my Noklak friends and the incredible Dr. Kaur was undoubtedly difficult. However, as the time came to leave, I embarked on the journey back to Mariani, braving another 13-14 hours of travel.
The Journey Back: Road Woes, and Twitter Trolls
Amidst the challenging journey back, a final unexpected turn added a memorable chapter to my Nagaland expedition. The previous night’s rain had taken a toll on the road conditions, amplifying the hardships of an already arduous route. The tragic road conditions triggered a sense of empathy for those who use the route often, and the situation became a focal point in the concluding phase of my trip.
Fuelled by the triumph of my Noklak adventure and perhaps a touch of newfound audacity, I decided to raise my voice about the deplorable road conditions in that part of Nagaland. Little did I know that this act would become one of the defining moments of my life – getting trolled on Twitter, or “X” now!
In a spontaneous act of advocacy, I directed a tweet to the renowned Nagaland minister, the jovial Temjen Imna Along, highlighting the deteriorating road conditions leading to Noklak. To my surprise and delight, the minister paid attention to my tweet and responded in the most courteous manner. I expressed my gratitude, hoping that the promise made by the minister would lead to tangible improvements. Regrettably, as of now, I haven’t had the opportunity to revisit Nagaland to witness the impact of this intervention.
Aditi Dave ji, thank you for your inputs.
Well about the roads, I’m sorry you had a tough ride but hopefully initiatives are being made for the construction of better road.
I assure your next visit will be a smooth one.
— Temjen Imna Along (@AlongImna) September 6, 2022
However, the aftermath of my tweet was not without its share of excitement. It triggered a cascade of reactions from trolls. They expressed discontent with my approach, criticising my complaint to a minister about road conditions. The online banter became a source of amusement, providing a lighthearted counterpoint to the serious issue at hand.
In the midst of the playful exchanges, my underlying hope remained steadfast—that the infrastructure in Nagaland would improve for the benefit of its residents. I envisioned a future where the region would boast super connectivity roads, fostering development and progress while preserving its natural beauty.
As life continues, I hear so is the progress of the Noklak people, who are actively engaged in selling their organic goods at the Hornbill Festival, and other spaces, showcasing the fruits of their labour. Meanwhile, Dr. Kaur has been transferred to another town in Nagaland, where she continues her impactful work, bringing positive change to many lives.
Reflecting on my trip, it became a journey of faith restoration in the Indian Administrative and Police Service, challenging preconceived notions about politicians and finding another loving home away from home. Thanks, Noklak!