Ah, the misadventures of a forgetful trekker! While the sun was rising in Mumbai one fine day in February 2020, I found myself in a train from Ahmedabad to Mumbai, delayed by two agonizing hours. Panic had set in; I had another train to catch to Haridwar from LTT Kurla station at 8:30 am. The problem? It’s 7:30 am, and I was still far from Borivali station.
Just I reached Borivali, I knew I was racing against time!, I had to catch a cab, pick up my friend, grab my trekking backpack from my home on way, and reach LTT all within 45-50 minutes – a distance of 25-26 kms. Talk about cutting it close, right? To my credit and the marathoner spirit, I managed the first three tasks on the list, but the last one proved to be tricky.
Thankfully, our cab driver, sensing the urgency, morphed into our unlikely hero, navigating the chaotic Mumbai streets like a seasoned speed demon. Miraculously, we did reach the station, just as the train began its departure. We heaved our heavy luggage and lunged into the nearest bogie, hearts pounding with relief.
But as I settled into my seat, revelling in the glory of our last-minute triumph, a sinking feeling enveloped me. I had committed the cardinal sin of trekking – forgetting my trusty trekking shoes at home! Embarrassed and desperate, I fired off a distress signal in our trekking group’s WhatsApp chat: “Anyone got spare shoes for a forgetful friend?” And just like that, I earned myself a dubious reputation – the gal who left her trekking shoes behind on a Himalayan adventure!
Divine Intervention: Winter Trek to Deorital Chopta Chandrashila
In February 2020, just before the world hit pause due to COVID-19, I had embarked on my first winter Himalayan trekking escapade to Deorital Chopta Chandrashila in Uttarakhand with the reliable Trek The Himalayas (TTH).
Deorital Chopta Chandrashila trek is situated in Rudraprayag district of Uttarakhand at an altitude of 13100 ft above sea level. The trekking distance is approximately 14 kms, and the total trekking time is about 18 hours spread over three days. I had meticulously planned the journey, had the perfect packing strategy, except in all the train delays and chaos I missed out on one tiny detail – forgetting my trusty trekking shoes at home.
And so while on the train journey to Haridwar, the first pitstop before the grand winter trek, I was nervously contemplating about the ‘barefoot’ trek adventure! Thankfully, TTH came to the ‘divine’ rescue with rented trekking shoes from Rishikesh, saving me from a frostbitten misadventure.
Our journey kicked off in Haridwar, where a day exploring the holy city’s Ganga ghat and vibrant spiritual life set the divine tone for our adventure.
Road to Sari: Landslides, Dry Fruits, & the Himalayan View
The next day, under the guidance of our TTH trek leader, we set off from Rishikesh towards Sari village, the starting point for our Deorital trek – the inaugural leg of our adventure. The journey typically takes 7-8 hours from Rishikesh. We kicked off early in the morning, anticipating a timely arrival by lunch. However, the Himalayan road development projects had a surprise in store for us.
A landslide blocked our path, leaving us stranded for over 4 hours. With hunger gnawing at our stomachs and water supplies dwindling, we resorted to the only sustenance available – my trusty pack of dry fruits, a quintessential Gujju survival kit! As we munched on our meagre rations, we took in the breathtaking Himalayan landscape, gearing up for the challenges ahead. En route to Sari, we marvelled at the majestic confluence of the Alaknanda and Bhagirathi rivers at Devprayag, set against the backdrop of the Garhwali Himalayas.
Sari village greeted us with its picturesque meadows and welcoming community, offering a tantalising glimpse of the looming Chandrashila Summit. Despite our late arrival, we found solace in a cozy hotel, recharging for the adventures that lay ahead. While there’s an alternate route from Ukhimath for the Chandrashila trek, we had committed to the Deori Tal route, setting the stage for our unforgettable journey.
Surviving Deoria Tal’s Cold Embrace & Embracing Detours
Next morning after a hearty breakfast, we embarked on the trek to Deoria Tal, navigating through dense forests and steep paths. The 3 km trek usually takes about an hour, winding its way up the mountains from Sari village. Along the way, a prominent viewpoint offers a much-needed break, treating us to breathtaking vistas of snow-capped peaks and verdant valleys.
Deoria Tal, perched at 7550 ft above sea level, holds captivating Hindu mythology. Legend has it that the lake was once the bathing spot for the Devas, the gods themselves. It also marks the site where the Pandavas faced a quiz from a Yaksha during their exile in the Mahabharata. Besides its mythological allure, Deoria Tal is a haven for birdwatchers, offering glimpses of rare Himalayan avian species. Exploring the surrounding trails, one can easily succumb to the serene mountain ambiance.
While Deoria Tal sets a picturesque scene for camping, winter nights there are not for the faint-hearted. Despite the breathtaking views, the freezing temperatures tested our resolve, turning our cozy tents into icy chambers. As we huddled together, playing games and sharing laughs, the cold somehow brought us closer, despite the shivers running down our spines.
Yet, as night fell, the mountain had a cruel joke in store. Despite my warm sleeping bag, the icy ground beneath felt like an arctic tundra, leaving me longing for the comforts of home. I must have counted more sheep than there are stars in the sky, but sleep eluded me, and I found myself yearning for the warmth of my own bed, cursing my adventurous spirit.
But with the dawn came a transformation. As the mist cleared, the mountain unveiled its majestic beauty once more. The snow-dusted landscape, crisp mountain air, and panoramic views of Chandrashila summit and the distant Tungnath temple rejuvenated our spirits, washing away the memory of the chilly night.
Our plan was to trek about 9 km from Deoria Tal to Chopta via Baniyakund. However, fate had other ideas. Heavy snowfall had shut down the route, forcing us to backtrack to Sari village and catch a cab to Chopta instead. We missed out on what could have been an epic trek through Rohini Bugyal to Baniyakund – a bummer, I know!
Arriving at the Chopta campsite, we were greeted by a mesmerizing sight: tin shed cottages half-buried in snow. My first thought? At least I won’t be sleeping on bare ground in a tent! Despite the chilly night, our group’s banter and games kept spirits high. We even found time to build snowmen in the fields and befriend some local canines – anything to keep warm, right?
From Mishaps to Marvels: Reaching the Highest Abode of Lord Shiva
The final leg of the journey was the Tungnath-Chandrasila trek. Chopta to Chandrashila trek distance is approximately 5.5 km, and this trek is rated easy. But when you have to walk in the snow, it can test your mettle and muscles. With waterproof, windproof gear, and snow gaiters plus spiky crampons on our shoes, we set on the steep hike. Sure I didn’t miss my trekking shoes since it was all covered up in gaiters and crampons.
The 3 km trek from Chopta to Tungnath wound through snowy meadows and forests. Despite the well-defined trail, navigating the steep scissor bends added to the challenge. As we approached Tungnath, perched at 11,380 ft, the views became breathtaking. Tungnath, the highest Shiva temple, stood proud amidst the snow, closed for winter visitors.
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According to legend, the Pandavas built the Panch Kedars, seeking Lord Shiva’s forgiveness. Tungnath, where parts of the sacred bull appeared, is steeped in mythology. Snow obscured much of the temple, but we still managed to ring the bell of its grand gate – a feat made easier by winter’s touch.
The views start getting increasingly better from Tungnath Temple. On the left is a view overlooking a valley of Birch trees, which is again a prime spot to sight bird species like Monal and Griffon Vultures. The trail to Chandrashila begins just behind the temple complex. The summit offers epic views of Mt. Trishul, Nanda Ghunti, Nanda Devi, Thalaysagar, Gangotri Ranges, Kamet, Chaukhamba, Kedar Dome, Dunagiri, Jahanukut, and more.
From Tungnath Temple, the trek to the Chandrashila summit is short but steep. Unfortunately, heaps of snow obscured the trail, and our wise guide decided it was best not to risk it – much to our dismay. So, we contented ourselves with admiring the Chandrashila summit from afar.
Nonetheless, we had a blast falling in the snow, snapping photos, offering prayers to Lord Shiva at his lofty abode, and simply reveling in the snow-covered landscape. Who needs the summit when you’ve got such fun memories to cherish?
After soaking in the scenery at the top, we began our descent. For me, sliding down the snow hills was pure fun – perhaps where my interest in skiing began.
The journey to the highest abode of Lord Shiva at Tungnath was indeed a mystical adventure, where every step was laden with challenges and wonders. From the chaos of train delays to the humorous mishap of forgotten trekking shoes, each obstacle became a part of the unforgettable narrative that unfolded amid the snow-capped peaks.
I visited Tungnath Temple many time and whenever I go – its feels like its my first one. There is something unique spiritual vibes with this places and so Himalayas. Thanks for sharing about Shri Tungnath Temple with us.