Buckle up, folks, because my mountain biking saga of 2021 is about to take you on a rollercoaster ride. Picture this: me, armed with a daring spirit and a rented Bajaj Avenger motorcycle larger than life (and me), ready to conquer the treacherous twists and turns of the Kumaon wonderland of Uttarakhand state in Northern India.
My grand plan was to embark on a whirlwind tour from Nainital to Almora, then Kasar Devi, Mukteshwar, Bhimtal, and back to Nainital, roughly 190-200 km total distance in five days. Brilliant on paper, I swear! But, cue the reality check, because life is not that simple and plans never straightforward.
To begin with it was trying to tie my luggage on the bike that felt like solving a Rubik’s Cube blindfolded. With no bungee cords handy, I mounted my luggage with whatever I found, praying they’d hold on for dear life throughout the journey.
Spoiler alert: They didn’t. My unscheduled pit stops for luggage readjustment? Well, let’s just say I turned them into a fun cardio routines.
Now, let’s talk about the roads. They were rougher than my worst bad hair day, but the Pahari Kumaon region was stunning.
Sure the mountains were laughing at my adventurous spirit as I inhaled more dust than a vacuum cleaner and made friends with the potholes along the way. Talk about unforgettable bonding experiences!
1. Seeking Blessings and Balance at Kainchi Dham
First stop: Kainchi Dham, a cool 20-kilometer joyride from Nainital. Neem Karoli Baba’s Ashram, famous for attracting the likes of tech titans and Hollywood stars. I strolled at the tranquil Hanuman temple, nestled amidst hills and beside a serene river.
Did I find inner peace? May be for that moment. And then I remembered my motorcycle adventure. So I whispered a prayer, “Baba, grant me the wisdom to keep my bike upright, just like your famous followers kept their iPhones in one piece.”
2. Kumaoni Delicacies: Navigating Food and Bumpy Roads
Hunger struck, and I found myself indulging in Kumaoni delights at Anupam Restaurant near the Ashram. A full thali? Tempting, but I wasn’t ready for a food coma mid-ride.
Instead, I settled for some Mandua Roti, Kumaoni Kheera Raita, and a traditional Kumaoni bean dal. To wash it all down, a lemon soda from a vigilant roadside vendor who guarded my precious bike like it was his own.
Next on was time to chug on like a fearless mountain warrior I was pretending to be, but my luggage became a rebellious teenager, insisting on slipping out of its nylon constraints every now and then. My solution? Make tightening pit stops, master the art of swearing at bags, and keep rolling till Almora, about 50 kms of riding.
By the time I reached there, I resembled a wind-beaten scarecrow in desperate need of caffeine. I surrendered to a steaming cup of tea and devouring Bal Mithai, a local Kumaoni dessert. Shoutout to my foodie friend @mumbaisecreteats for recommending this brown khoya fudge bomb coated in white sugar balls and the Kumaoni delicacies. The ride might be wild, but the treats were on point.
3. Reaching Kasar Devi: Wrong Turns & Hostel Horror Stories
Now, it was time to brace for adventure blooper reel. As soon as I crossed Almora, my GPS decided to send me on an accidental quest towards Pithoragarh, more than 100 kms distance from my intended destination Kasar Devi. Bravo, technology!
Thankfully my inner alarm bells rang after just 10 kms, and I executed a swift U-turn. Way to add bonus mileage to my adventure, right? So by the time I arrived at the GoStops hostel in Kasar Devi, darkness was descending, and I was ready to crash… just not into horror tales.
Yet, there I was, cozied up by the fire pit with my fellow travelers, listening to a gruesome tale of murder most foul from the Pahadi land– a love story turned horror story, involving a guy, a girl, and some seriously misguided family intervention. It was a true crime patrol hour. Cue me speed-walking to my dorm, hoping to escape the plot twists.
But wait, the night had one more act: a spirited fella fueled by liquid courage decided to grace the ladies’ dorm with his tipsy presence, inviting me and my dorm mate to a “sip-and-chatter” session. Well, I had to flex my superhero muscle and evict him like a bouncer at a comedy club. The hostel manager gave him the grand boot, and my night went from “freaky” to “dreamy” in record time.
4. Night Whispers and Wildlife Wonders at Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary
With my trusty motorcycle deserving a day off, I had hailed a taxi for local exploration for next day, much to the initial intrigue of my Delhiite dorm mate. However, her enthusiasm hit snooze mode when I proposed an early morning escapade. Little did I know, her nighttime phone conversations were the real stars of the show, turning my sleep into an accidental eavesdropping session.
So, in a playful act of revenge, next morning I embarked on my taxi adventure solo, bidding potential car rental savings adieu. Cushioned in comfort of the car, I reached Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary – a mere 16 kms from Kasar Devi. The sanctuary boasts of over 200 bird species and an orchestra of exotic flora and fauna amid the embrace of oak, rhododendron, and pine trees.
With a network of 60 km hiking trails, this haven is best explored on foot. In a different scenario, I would have jumped at the chance to trek, but today wasn’t that day.
So, we drove the taxi till the KMVN Tourist Rest House, a highly sought-after refuge within the sanctuary. From here, a 2 km walk trail led to Zero Point, the sanctuary’s pinnacle, offering a Himalayan panorama that’s straight out of a postcard.
Starting early morning meant encountering few fellow explorers on the trail, just me and another couple. As I strolled through the forest, I was immersed in the trek’s serenity. However, a tinge of wariness lingered, as stories of “Man-Eaters of Kumaon” danced in my mind.
So, despite my desire for solitude, I couldn’t resist sneaking peeks at my fellow trekkers. After all, what if some wild cat decided I was the day’s snack? Amid these thoughts, I had a grand time spotting exotic birds and exchanging secrets with the whispering trees. And as I reached Zero Point, the sight of the majestic Himalayas simply stole my breath away
5. Divine Excursions Across Kumaon’s Spiritual Landscape
After beholding the beauty of nature’s creation in Binsar, it was time to admire some man made creations and understand faith. Off I went to the renowned Jageshwar Dham, a veritable temple extravaganza that boasts a whopping 125 temples dating back to the 7th to 14th centuries.
Jageshwar Dham
The stone-carved temple complex juxtaposed against the backdrop of towering pine trees felt like Mother Nature and human craftsmanship decided to collaborate on an otherworldly masterpiece.
Now Jageshwar Dham is not just an Archaeological Site, but is a holy place in Shaivism traditions, which means no shoes allowed in the complex. So, there I was, treading barefoot on a crisp winter morning, channelling my inner ballet dancer in the midst of an ancient ritual.
Thankfully, no one bothered to film my moves or the world would have witnessed my footwork fiasco, which might have garnered some unintended online fame. Also, glad to not take the bike that day for my feet would have definitely numbed on a ride. Sometimes, it’s the smallest choices that save us from the quirkiest escapades.
Next, was time for some foodie break as my local driver introduced me to very spicy chaulai ki pakora (Amaranth leaves fritters), my taste buds embarked on a delightful journey as we paused along the way. With my culinary indulgence momentarily satisfied, I found myself exploring intriguing trekking routes towards Jageshwar. Today might not have been the day to venture forth, but my mind couldn’t resist painting vivid scenes of future escapades on those uncharted trails.
Golu Chitai Temple
Interestingly, my cab driver requested to have one more break, before we drove to another famous temple of Kasar Devi, some 35 kms from Jageshwar. He apparently had some legal business to attend at an ancient temple, to reolve a family dispute. My inquisitive side was piqued and I discovered the Golu Chitai temple inundated with hand written paper applications, neatly tied to its premises.
This unique temple, dedicated to Golu Devta, the lord of justice, is renowned for its extraordinary role in settling earthly disputes that the regular courts might overlook. As I peered into a couple of hand-written pleas, my curiosity was met with a mix of bewilderment and amusement.
People beseeched the mighty Devta to intervene in matters as diverse as liberating a liquor shop from encroachments to untangling property disputes to resolving extra marital affairs, complete with meticulously prepared applications on stamp paper. It was a sight to behold – a real-life divine court of appeals.
I couldn’t help but appreciate the unique symphony of belief that echoed through the paper-strewn temple, where even the bells joined in as melodious notes of thanksgiving. Well now you know where to make an appeal in case of twisted legal matters!!
Kasar Devi Temple
My last pitstop for the day was the charming Kasar Devi temple – practically a stone’s throw away from my hostel. As the sun began its descent, I figured catching a sunset from this hilltop sanctuary would be the perfect way to sign off the day. Nestled within the embrace of lush green forests, this hilltop temple venerates the feminine divinity of Goddess Kasar Devi. The temple’s origin is said to be 2nd century cave! But wait, it gets even wilder.
As if being a cave-carved marvel wasn’t enough, this temple has a cosmic secret – a tie to Machu Picchu in Peru and Stonehenge in the UK. Kasar Devi sits on Earth’s very own Van Allen Belt, and the locals here have some out-of-this-world stories. They claim that NASA experts descended upon this village to decipher the cosmic riddle that this temple is part of. It’s like a sci-fi movie plot unfolding in the Himalayas.
This magnetic mojo has cast its spell on an illustrious people from the pages of history: Swami Vivekananda, Bob Dylan, Rabindranath Tagore, and DH Lawrence, just to name a few. But for me, that night the hostel bed was like hitting the reset device itself. I slumbered soundly, lost in dreams of the open road, my trusty bike beckoning me for another adventure come morning.
6. Lost in the Woods and Mukteshwar Heights
Bright and early, I kicked off my ride from Kasar Devi to Mukteshwar, a jaunty 50-kilometer journey. My tush was raring to go, feeling perky after a good night’s rest. Little did I know that my trusty GPS had a different kind of adventure planned for me – a forest detour straight out of a fairy tale, or maybe a fantasy novel.
Now, I might have thought of reaching Mukteshwar in record time, but I didn’t quite expect to become one with the trees. Lost in a forest? Check. Slightly spooked? Check. Memorizing every enchanting moment? Double check.
Ah, Mukteshwar, the town of serenity with a side of Himalayan snowscape. Gem of the quaint town is the ancient Mukteshwar Mahadev temple, from where I summoned my inner mountain goat for a mini hike up the hill, just to prove I can still rock a rocky terrain. And then, my friends, came the pièce de résistance – adventure sports!
I eyed the ziplining cliff there like it was a slice of triple chocolate cake – tempting, thrilling, and slightly terrifying. So there I stood, admiring the valley below, thinking how cool it would be if I could casually zip from cliff to cliff. But then my inner voice shouted, “Girl, you’ve already had your forest escapade today, let’s not turn this into a full-blown action movie!” True that, who needs ziplining when you’ve got the thrill of navigating through a forest labyrinth as a solo motorcycle rider, right?
7. Tabby Whimsy and Woodland Crafts
Right at the stairway to the Mukteshwar Mahadev temple, a furry surprise awaited me – a cute tabby cat with eyes that could rival any Bollywood star! Little did I know, this adorable furball was master of a local artisan– Nitin, whose crafts made of locally available wood and pines creates a spark that could light up the whole town!
While I tried my best to channel my inner cat whisperer and shower affection on the grumpy tabby, he refused to show any interest in me. And so I painfully diverted my attention and checked Nitin’s creations and bought an interesting real moss- covered mini hut that now holds court in my tiny Mumbai window garden. Of course, my already overpacked baggage grumbled under its breath, feeling the weight of my impulsive purchase. But hey, when you’re carting home memories of a mountain adventure, who cares if your suitcase is giving you the silent treatment, right?
8. From Snow Clad Moutains to Land of Lakes Bhimtal
After a heavenly sleep in Mukteshwar, next moring I embarked on journey to Bhimtal, some 40 kms distance. It was one of the most picturesque section of the journey, where I was cruising along a road that’s seemed to have emerged out of some canvas painting with awe-inspiring beauty.
On one side, the towering mountain wall stood tall, like a bodyguard to the heavens. On the other side, the Nanda Devi mountain range waved hello, its snow-capped peaks giving a friendly nod to the clear blue sky. And down below, an entire civilization bustled amidst a sea of lush green trees, like a sprawling woven carpet.
Trust me, the view was so jaw-droppingly gorgeous that even my motorcycle seemed to be grinning from ear to ear! Or was it the curvy roads or the extra baggage that it was taking on like a daredevil. I couldn’t exactly hear its thoughts – motorcycles tend to be quiet conversationalists – but I could feel our bond strengthening cruising on those rocky roads. It was like a rocky tango, and we were nailing every step!
And then, I arrived at Bhimtal – a place that had beauty dripping from every corner. A ginormous lake that’s said to be the creation of none other than the mighty Bhim from the Mahabharat epic. Legend has it that he dug up this water wonder to quench Draupadi’s thirst. But let’s be real, in this Kaliyug era, don’t look for Bhim to quench your thirst, find the corner shop selling soft drinks and water.
As I guzzled down a soda to rescue my parched throat, I lounged by the Bhimtal lake soaking in the panoramic view against the backdrop of the enchanting Shivalik Range, I couldn’t help but feel like I was in a postcard come to life. Bhimtal is like a treasure trove of such postcard-perfect vistas and stunning lakes. I would say it is Kumaon’s Lake District!
There’s Sat Tal, the cluster of seven lakes nearby, where Bhim’s demon wife, Hidimba, apparently lived and thrived. Great place for birders as it is also known as a paradise of migratory birds. Then there’s Nal-Damyanti Tal, where the mystical character Damyanti pulled off the ultimate waiting game in Sage Vashishtha’s ashram, eagerly awaiting her lover Nala’s return. And don’t even get me started on Naukachital, the lake with nine corners, that’s like a less crowded treasure waiting to be explored just 20 km away.
Now, if you’re feeling like a sailor, there’s boating to delight at these watery wonders. But if you’re more of a shoreline philosopher, just plop down by the lakeside, soak in the serenity, or do something crazy like fly over the lakes!
9. View from the Top – Flying High in Bhimtal
After conquering the winding roads on my bike, I figured, why not conquer the sky too? So, there I was, face to face with the opportunity to soar like a bird in Bhimtal, where there are ample opportunities to experience paragliding. With the confidence of a seasoned adventurer (or so I pretended), I inquired about the para gliding flights. The cost? Nominal for a heart-pounding 15-20 minutes of airborne euphoria. I mean, who needs a spa day when you can have an adrenaline-packed joy ride, right? Plus, my biker persona was on the line – no turning back now!
I signed up for the flight and checked all the fitness boxes – heartbeats, blood pressure, panic attacks, – all normal. On the surface, I was the picture of confidence, but inside, I was that nervous kid who had hidden the bike riding adventure from the mother ship and was now taking a bigger leap – quite literally.
I prayed, “Oh God, please let this para gliding gig go off without a hitch. Imagine explaining this to Mom if things go south!” Here I am, a 40-plus-year-old, hoping Mom won’t find out about my sky-high escapades!
And then, it was time for take-off. My pilot, a young daredevil himself, went over the safety drill while my mind wandered to the “what-ifs” of paragliding horror stories. Buckles unbuckling, unexperienced pilots – you name it, I thought it.
Strapped into the tandem paraglider, me and my pilot were like a dynamic duo waiting for our superhero moment. A few steps, a quick run, and suddenly, we were airborne, gliding off the edge of a cliff. My heart skipped a beat, but boy, what a view! Like a bird in flight, I was surrounded by open sky, stunning scenery, and my newfound buddy, the pilot (holding on to him for dear life).
Fortunately, this young navigator behind me knew his stuff. He steered us through the skies like a pro, while I soaked in the jaw-dropping sights. Bhimtal’s lakes and hills transformed into an otherworldly masterpiece from up above. I couldn’t help but imagine what the birds must feel – they’ve got the best seats in the house!
For a good 15-20 minutes, I reveled in the bird’s eye view, feeling on top of the world. But alas, all adventures must come to an end. The pilot gave the signal, and it was time to land. “Keep your feet parallel,” he said. Easy peasy, right? Well, apparently not for me. My landing resembled more of a thud, much to the chagrin of my knees and my pilot’s raised eyebrows. At least I had a smile on my face – because, you see, there was a camera capturing every glorious moment of my less-than-graceful landing. With landing pics in tow, I bid farewell to the sky and set course for Nainital.
10. Farewell bike and taking on the chisel
Back in Nainital, I rolled up to the GoStops hostel like a triumphant warrior returning from battle. Those who had witnessed my less-than-graceful fall on day one were now casting admiring glances my way – who would’ve thought I’d conquer those roads like a pro? Honestly, not me! But I was thrilled that I took the plunge into the world of biking, amassing memories, lessons, and an unexpected boost of self-confidence.
Saying goodbye to my trusty bike felt a bit like bidding farewell to a valiant steed after a victorious quest. As I returned the rental bike keys, I couldn’t help but feel a twinge of attachment it had truly been a great friend taking me through ups and downs and rough terrains like a true ride-or-die sidekick. But alas, I had to bid adieu.
To overcome the momentary grief of letting go, I checked in to another adventure, this one involving saws and chisels. Yep, you read that right! I stumbled upon a woodwork workshop hosted by the talented Abhimanyu, aka @mistri_labs. Armed with fancy wood work lab machines and guided by Abhimanyu’s expertise, I dabbled in the art of woodcraft. I crafted a snazzy cheese plate and some quirky wooden arrows for my humble abode. Of course, those creations went on their way home by courier, as my luggage was already bursting at the seams with Kumaon goodies and cherished memories.
Now, post this amazing bike riding journey in Kumaon landscape and an unexpected detour into the world of wood crafting, I haven’t really progressed in either of the crafts much. Neither have I done another bike adventure nor mastered wood creations. Honestly, I don’t even know when and how or if it will happen again in future, as life always keeps bringing many new adventures. But you know what’s awesome? Having shared this incredible journey with all of you right here. Every twist of the throttle, every carve of the chisel – it’s all etched in this digital space, waiting to be revisited whenever nostalgia strikes
Beautiful photos of the place and breathtaking views and experiences!
What an adventure this is! You are a braver person than I to tackle a trip on 2 wheels! I need 4!
What an amazing trip! I mean, amazing views, dodgy hostel stories (well done for kicking him out), tasty food and even a grumpy cat!? Sounds amaaaaazing! If you did this again, would you add one some extra days to make it more doable? Or would you go for the same times/distances?
p.s. I love your descriptions! You’re a great writer.
Thanks so much for appreciation – means a lot – love your work as well
f you did this again, would you add one some extra days to make it more doable? Or would you go for the same times/distances? – I might do some extra days at each place or cover more places – and distance – but what I did that time was quite perfect for the skills in riding I have lol!
This blog deserves all the praise for its unwavering positivity. Love it!